Samurai Dave: The Roving Ronin Report

Rambling Narrative of Travels, Thoughts, and Embellishments

The Yamanote Halloween Train Rides Into a Sea of Adversity

The Tokyo Yamanote Halloween Train Rides Into a Sea of Adversity
Semi-Annual Unofficial Tradition Sparks Heated Debated on the Net

Jumping up and down with excitement waiting for the legendary Yamanote Halloween Train

On the evening of the October 27, 2007, Tokyo was just coming out the grip of an unseasonable typhoon which struck the capital fiercely with rain and high winds. Broken umbrellas littered the streets like the battered corpses of a major battle. While the city was still reeling from this climatic chaos, an unsuspecting train was suddenly overrun by a horde of goblins, witches, devils, ghosts, ninja, power rangers, naughty school girls, and even Santa Claus. Yes, the legendary and notorious Yamanote Halloween Train rode once more.

This time there were actually two Yamanote Halloween Trains. One group started at Shinjuku station and another group started at Ikebukuro station a few minutes earlier. The previous two Halloween Train events had started in Shinjuku. This year, however, the organizers of the last two events sent out a mass email changing the location to Ikebukuro. Meanwhile someone else sent out a public notice setting the event in Shinjuku so there ended up being two separate Halloween Trains.

The Yamanote Halloween Train rides again!

I attended the Ikebukuro event. I was worried the typhoon would have dampened enthusiasm but there was a sizable amount of people gathered at Ikebukuro. There were more gathered at Shinjuku close to 500 whereas we had perhaps 100 to 200. All the police were at Shinjuku. Our party was a complete surprise to them.

We tried to merge with the Shinjuku party but we obviously messed up and boarded an earlier train. It was packed enough as it was. We completely filled two cars and spilled into another. It was much like the morning commute except with alcohol and a happier mood with no morning breath and no chikans (groping perverts on trains).

The author and a Red Guy congratulate Japan Rail for another great party

The usual Halloween activities then took place — drinking (if you had enough space to put bottle or can close to your mouth), chatting, snacking, chanting, climbing up on the scarcely-used overhead luggage rack, and singing. There were a lot of Germans on the train so we sank the Oktoberfest song: “Ein Prosit, Der Gemutlichkeit!” We didn’t chant the station names so much this time because the windows were so fogged up from the typhoon earlier so we couldn’t see which station we were at most of the time.

Nothing terrible of consequence happened with our Halloween Train. The worst I heard was a grumpy salaryman who got angry when one of the party participants accidentally bumped into him. He had boarded the train after the party had started. Had he walked a car or two down, he could have avoided the party all together. He was a bit taken aback though when the offending participant, a foreigner, apologized in very formal Japanese.

It’s the Great Pumpkin on the Yamanote Halloween Train, Charlie Brown!

Several other commuters joined with us drinking and eating what food and drink we had to offer. One salaryman had so much fun, he jumped up and down waving and shouting and giving high fives to everyone. Another satisfied Yamanote Halloween Train customer. We probably made his night.

Our Halloween Train lasted nearly an hour with many getting off at Shibuya before completing a full loop. A number of them got on the Yamanote Train going the other way to Tokyo station which is about 20 minutes away or so. So while the remainder of us continued onward, that group rode in the opposite direction. Meanwhile the Shinjuku Halloween Train was somewhere behind us. So for a short while there were actually three Yamanote Halloween Trains on the loose!

An amused commuter flashes a peace sign

While the Ikebukuro-initiated Halloween Train went off rather smoothly, the Shinjuku one caused quite the controversy. As it was the more publicized one, it drew a lot more attention, not too mention ire particularly on the internet.

Word of the event caused heated debate on sites like Youtube and various Japanese-related sites most notably One of the chief complaints is that the event is perceived as being just a bunch of rude drunk foreigners making a nuisance of themselves on a public train. They often overlooked the fact that nearly half of the participants are actually Japanese — who are being rude and drunk and making a nuisance of themselves on a public train.

Singing Germans

It its earlier conception, the Yamanote Halloween Train was primarily comprised of foreigners. If there were any Japanese participants they were friends or significant others of the foreigner participants. In more recent times, Japanese participants have come entirely on their own or in their own groups. The Halloween Train has become even more of a multi-national/multi-cultural event. In the past it was seen by some earlier participants as a way to lash out at a conformist society. Now it’s seen as just a bit of playful mischief to indulge in and a little steam-venting.

I’ve ridden the Yamanote Halloween Train three years in a row now. All my experiences have been positive. I’ve never seen any participants aggressively harass commuters save to offer them snacks and alcohol. Nor have I ever witnessed any destruction of property. Some lights were switched off but they were switched back on fairly quickly. Members of the Ikebukuro Halloween Train actually went around and made sure there was no garbage left on the train when we exited.

Taking a sip

The critics of the event only know about the event secondhand and from Youtube clips. This hasn’t stopped some of them, however, from making outlandish assertions that the Halloween Train partiers hate Japan or that such events don’t happen in other countries. Some of these critics are Japanese who seem to hate the notion of costumed foreigners drinking on a train. Others are foreigners either living in Japan or elsewhere who lamented the fact (in their minds) that the partiers are giving all foreigners a bad name.

Some critics labeled us terrorists and hijackers. I hope those who used either word particular hijacker were not native English speakers who should have known better. Hijacking involves taking control of a vehicle and taking it away from its original destination. No Halloween Train I have ever been on ever took the Yamanote train anywhere or even stopped it. Saying we hijack the train is just melodramatic hysterics in overdrive.

Nigh naked guys feels the chill

What truly gets incredible is the “fight fire with nukes” syndrome that sprung up on the net particularly with There were calls for deportation and arrests from both Japanese and foreigners. Some threatened to go there in person and actually physically hurt the partiers. Fortunately such violence is often only contained to the net as anyone who spends any amount of time on the internet knows, most of those who threaten physical violence on the internet rarely have the courage to follow through with it.

What amazed me were the number of foreigners I argued with who willingly defended actions that are blatantly xenophobic and racist. One fellow stated under a Youtube clip of the event: “And they wonder why some Japanese landlords won’t rent apartments to foreigners.” The actions of the few should not be used against the many. To deny living accommodations on the basis of race, ethnicity, and nationality is racist regardless if some within that group have an hour long party on a train once a year.

Drunk Sailor Moon girl flashes peace sign at imaginary people

Then there were the arguments made in ignorance such as parties like the Yamanote Halloween Train do not happen in other countries. Nothing could be further from the truth. Anyone who lives or has been to a country which is very sports-enthusiastic can attest to this. Just recently a cousin of mine witnessed 400 crazed Italian soccer fans board a train in Tuscany. The conductor ushered my cousin and his girlfriend to the front of the train for their own safety. On the Yamanote Halloween Train, we would have just chatted with them and shared our snacks and drinks with them or we would have just left them alone.

Then there’s the myth that Japanese are always quiet and reserved in public places that some critics continually brought up. Either the proponents of this myth are lying, oblivious to their surroundings, or they don’t get out much. In 2002 when Japan hosted part of the World Cup, many public places were filled with ecstatic soccer fans. In front of Shibuya station one night after Japan played, hundreds gathered to chant “Nippon!”

A pair of passengers partake of pretzels presented by the author

In Osaka around the same time, there were injuries and a fatality on an overcrowded bridge. Then there are the matsuri (Japanese festivals) where everything goes absolutely mad. Anyone who has attended a setsubun mami-maki can vouch that the Yamanote Halloween Train comes off as rather tame in comparison.

Also I’ve shown a number of Japanese students over the year my videos of the Halloween Train event and never have I heard any criticism. My students range in age from their twenties to their sixties. They’ve all enjoyed seeing the various costumes worn by the participants particularly the Power Rangers. The students often find the event amusing and some of them said they would like to attend some day if they had the chance.

Indian chief or the Village People?

In the end the controversy over the Yamanote Halloween Train is simply a mountain made needlessly out of a molehill. The event only happens once a year on a Saturday evening, lasts about one to two hours, and is usually confined to one train. This year was an exception. What I find worse is the critics’ attitudes towards the event which range from puritanical prudishness to xenophobic belligerence. What is truly worrisome is that while the Halloween Train participants will go back to their jobs and their normal routines after the event is over, a number of the critics will continue to harbor pent-up bitter resentment over it.

A waving witch

Who is truly more dangerous? The Halloween Train participant who indulges in a bit of Halloween mischief on the train for one hour or the embittered critic who wishes detainment, deportation, and even violence to befall a bunch of people just having fun? Some of these critics I worry will be the type that will walk into a fast food place one day guns a-blazing. Thank God, guns are not as readily available in Japan as in the US!

These critics could probably benefit from a little steam-venting by joining the Yamanote Halloween Train next year. There they would meet people from all over the world and find that most of them are really quite harmless and more than a little fun. The Halloween Train is an open party for anyone who wishes to join. None are refused. We do not discriminate unlike our critics. And its slowly becoming more and more a Japanese event as so many Japanese attend the event while many foreigners dress in costumes inspired by Japanese culture from samurai, geisha, ninja, power rangers, and anime characters.

So for all you naysayers out there, I urge you next year to lay aside your Bibles, remove the sticks from your posterior, take off your tinfoil hats, park your black vans, take your medication, and join us sometime on the Yamanote Halloween Train! You won’t be disappointed!

Happy Halloween!

Peace! Happy Halloween!

October 30, 2007 - Posted by | Blogroll, cosplay, costumes, halloween, japan, life, party, tokyo, travel, yamanote halloween train, Yamanote Train, youtube | , , , ,


  1. Whatever dude, you’re still a bunch of obnoxious idiots.

    Comment by notadicklikeyou | October 31, 2007 | Reply

  2. Hello there, just ignore the comment made by the brainless Neanderthal above. The post you’ve made on another thing about Japan that I know jack about is interesting 🙂

    Comment by Virgilius Sade | October 31, 2007 | Reply

  3. looks like a lot of fun. subversive and playful. i like it when everyday life is shaken up a bit in a creative way. i might join in next year.

    but i was one of the many thousands of people who were inconvenienced because of the delay in shinagawa. i was in shibuya, waiting to go home after a long day at work. i waited for about 40 minutes. that was a drag. it’s too bad one or a few idiots decided to take out the lights in the subway car. i also heard that another person decided to walk on the tracks, but i’m not sure if he/she was a reveler. their moment of fun was a total bummer for many many people trying to get home or to meet friends or to parties or whatever. deporting them though is a bit harsh. how about making them stand in front of shibuya station, bowing and apologizing to the commuters for 40 minutes? i might be satisfied then.

    Comment by Wind | October 31, 2007 | Reply

  4. Thanks for comment, Sade! The first guy is just some anonymous wanker who hates that other people are having fun. I doubt he even read past the first paragraph.

    “but i was one of the many thousands of people who were inconvenienced because of the delay in shinagawa.”

    It was Saturday night at 10 after a major typhoon. There weren’t “many” thousands out at that time. That’s a bit of an exaggeration. But I never noticed that long of a wait and I was still around on the Yamanote till 11. We were stopped for about 10-15 minutes is all I recall. I got off at Takadanobaba, rode to Shinjuku, waited for a few trains to pass in case the other party came by then I went back to Ikebukuro.

    Last year they turned off the lights in one of the carriages and the Train did not stop at all. Did they really need to stop the train and pull everyone else off this year when they didn’t last year? I wonder if they would have done so if there hadn’t been so much animosity streaming from the rightwing nutjobs on who made sure the police were well aware of the event.

    The previous events last year and 2005 went off without a hitch. I blame more the atmosphere of fear and bigotry created by the nutters on then I do on the dumbass who turned off the lights. If you check Youtube a number of spies were on the Shinjuku Train video taping and no doubt exeggerating the situation. BTW We had two or three lights turned off on our train as you can see in the photos and our train wasn’t stopped.

    The nutters were actually calling us terrorists and hijackers! One of my japanese students said that those guys are just a small group angry people who don’t like anyone having fun.

    Comment by samuraidave | October 31, 2007 | Reply

  5. Sounds kind of like you made this post to justify why you think it was right to do this.

    Well, I’m not against having fun and all that (that was bars and clubs are for) and not everyone who opposes this is a racist 2ch extremist either. As you have probably read on most blogs, many non-japanese are disgusted by this too. Just because YOU think this type of event is fun doesn’t mean other people do or want to take part in it.

    I don’t care if it was a group of foreigners of not, a loud drunken mob imposing themselves on my train ride home is simply retarded. And comparing them to what happens at Matsuri is not the same thing. Matsuri are sponsored by the community and generally have some sort of order, well not always 😉

    Comment by Roy | October 31, 2007 | Reply

  6. Great post, pity I wasn’t there! It’s such a shame that a few wierdos on 2chan try and spoil things for everyone else. Gaijin crime is pretty much non existant compared to the number of foreigners in Japan. A ten to fifteen minute delay isn’t really too much to get stressed over either.

    To all you guys bickering on 2chan, come over to england for a bit. Plenty of foreigners committing crimes here, and a lot worse than having a party on a subway train (and clearing up afterwards)!

    The difference being that whilst I think that if you are a guest in a country and you commit a crime you should be immediately deported, I wouldn’t turn round and point and shout everytime I saw a foreigner in the street. As we speak the boss of NOVA, Saruhashi, is in hiding and facing criminal charges for duping thousands of students and leaving hundreds of my countrymen without wages. Bit of a d*ck eh? But I’m not quaking in fear at the prospect of my next visit to Tokyo. People are individuals, good and bad, but a bit of a problem in Japan sometimes is that some have trouble recognising this.

    Comment by silverstar189 | October 31, 2007 | Reply

  7. Excuse my bad English. I’m Japanese.

    You can have a fun like that but not on the train.
    Public transportation is not for a party. If you want to scream and drink, there are other places suitable for it, such as a bar, pub or whatever, but never on the train.

    At a bar and pub, you can scream and shout and drink, because they are kind of the place for that. No one would complain about it. But in the train? No way. Commuters and other people on the train are not there to join a party like that. Train compartment is not a place where you throw a party.

    Even if you want to have a fun for Halloween, train is not the place for it. Train compartment is not a place for a party. Some passangers might have liked the festive mood, but some absolutely not. Passengers who felt disgusted and annoyed couldn’t have escaped from you, bunch of people who screamed and drunk as long as the train was moving. Train is confined space and they couldn’t escape from you who threw a party. You can have fun and get wild but not in the train. It’s just a matter of manner.

    Bad cell phone usage manner in Japan is a social problem here in Japan. Some people talk loud over the phone on train. Yes, just talking on the phone loud on train is considered nuisance. You can imagine how throwing a party like that is considred among general public. Is it OK as long as you have fun? Never.

    You can’t justify yourself. Your way of thinking looks extremely self-centered to me, but still you have right to have fun and enjoy Halloween. You sure do have right to have fun and enjoy Halloween. But not on the train. Simple as that.

    Comment by Hiro | November 1, 2007 | Reply

  8. “Matsuri are sponsored by the community and generally have some sort of order, well not always”

    Hey, the Halloween Train is sponsored by an international community of Tokyo residents and travelers. I talked to one Japanese girl from Kyushu who
    came to Tokyo just to attend this event.

    “You can’t justify yourself.”

    Yes I can and I did. As I stated above which is worse a once-a-year party on a train that lasts mainly one hour on a Saturday night or the xenophobic
    racist behavior that comes out of people like

    The Halloween Train is a non-discriminating event that is open to everyone. As you saw in the video, a number of passengers joined in. Granted one
    old lady was pissed but you can’t please everyone. The Ikebukuro event was rather tame and there were no cops. You have to wonder if the presence of
    cops helped to fuel the partiers to go further in their behavior. Also the Shinjuku one I heard had a lot of Nove teachers or I should say
    ex-Nova teachers so I think that element also added to the steam-venting activities.

    Comment by samuraidave | November 1, 2007 | Reply

  9. oh and thanks silverstar for the comments! Couldn’t agree more! What amazes me about some of the comments coming from foriengers and foriegn residents
    is that often echo that of the racist xenophobes on I’ve seen a number of comments from those types hoping the foriengers get arrested,
    deported and even beaten! And they always ignore the fact that the largest nationality percentage of the participants is Japanese. They ignore this
    because it puts holes in their self-righteous holier-than-thou arguments on the event.

    Comment by samuraidave | November 1, 2007 | Reply

  10. what fuckin sutpid,fuck off japan
    if coming my city kick u r ass

    Comment by togou | November 1, 2007 | Reply

  11. Togou, what city? I’ll plan my itnerary. any festivals going on there or sites with seeing after I whup your butt?

    Comment by samuraidave | November 1, 2007 | Reply

  12. 10 or 15 minutes? hmm. my watch said 40 minutes and that doesn’t include the time the train was standing there before i got there, and the platform was packed full of people. there was a constant stream of people coming onto the platform and many others going to other alternative trains. add to that all the stops on the yamanote and i reckon it was a few thousand people. but maybe there was no one else at any other station. i don’t know. just telling it like it is.

    if you want to blame the police for reacting to the situation, or to others who wanted them to act. okay. if others want to blame all gaijin for the moral decay of their society. i’m sure a case can be made for that too. i’ll place the blame on the vandals. or maybe it was just a malfunction.

    it’s true, public transportation probably shouldn’t be used to party in. on the other hand, in a city of 20 million people, if a few hours of localized disturbance one night a year is as bad as it gets, then i think, hey, let it go. it’s really just innocent fun. any talk of kicking asses by anyone is just silly.

    Comment by Wind | November 1, 2007 | Reply

  13. wind, as I said the Halloween Train is a once a year occurance and generally minimal trouble. This year was an exception though the Ikebukuro event
    had no problem. I find it interesting that the event that had no police chapron also had no problem or any truly outrageous behavior. Of course, ours
    didn’t have so many frustrated Nova teachers either. That Nova president better be careful and hope the cops find him before either his former employees
    or customers find him.

    As for train delays, that was nothing compared to suicides during the week. That can cause serious financial problems for Tokyo but the Halloween event is held at a time when hardly anyone is going to work or leaving it.

    And while the Halloween Train is once a year, the long delays on the Tobu line are rather frequent these days and they can’t blame a party on that.

    Comment by samuraidave | November 1, 2007 | Reply

  14. I don’t seem to understand the way you justify this event. You compare this “one day event” to the reactions by Japanese people on the web (most notably 2ch I assume), and yes I do agree that the racial comments are inappropriate and unnecessary; however, it doesn’t justify the fact that troubles actually occured. You can’t evade the responsibilities for some of the preventable troubles that did occur simply by comparing it to another problem and saying that it’s not as bad. It simply isn’t a strong enough argument.

    Like someone mentioned earlier on, Matsuri’s are festivals that are organized by the local community and they take formal steps to receive permissions in order to prevent any possible troubles that may occur. The police normally take some part in controlling the crowd/traffic/troubles in these events. Some of the troubles are a given considering the nature of the festivals, but things like vandalism, delaying the train, etc (yes, these are information obtained from the news or watching the videos since I’m overseas) aren’t a given for Halloween. I think the major issue here is that this event involved public transportations but was not formally organized. If the event at least took formal steps, ie get permission from station authorities (if that is possible), warn participants not to vandalize, leave non-partygoers alone and prevent possible troubles, etc., then people may start to understand and accept events like this one (just my idealistic point of view). Plus if it’s an only once-a-year event, thats another reason to organize it more formally, since I don’t think you or of the participants would want problems that may cause people to “miss the train”.

    The reason for the some of the negative views from foreigners is that they know that foreigners have less reputation than locals not only in Japan but in general, no matter what country one goes to. Reputations are bad enough already and they don’t want racial stereotypes to be reinforced (stereotypes of foreigners, most notably caucasians in this case, to be loud, obnoxious, rude, selfish, self-centered, etc.). Yes, these stereotypes are wrong and only reflect a minority, but it’s there and it can’t be changed that easily, just like stereotypes towards African-Americans in the US.

    I think the responsibility goes to all participants (no matter their race), but also the police for their lack of effort in placing somewhat control of the event.

    Looking forward to hearing your opinion.

    Comment by doogfood | November 1, 2007 | Reply

  15. this is..suck!!
    Because of these silly people, the other foreign people must received a cold welcom…
    fuck off from japan!!!

    Comment by fuck | November 2, 2007 | Reply

  16. Only by stupid people, fuck. As seen in the video many Japanese enjoyed the event.

    Doogfood the majority of what you have asked has already been addressed in both the story and my comments below. As I mentioned above the unsupervised Halloween Train that I attended was far tamer and we cleaned up after ourselves.

    The other Halloween Train’s problem I think stems from two things:

    1) the belligerent attitude of the people. I think the police were probably more worried about them because recent history has shown enraged rightwingers are more volatile than drunks on a train. Remember the guy who rammed his car into the gates of Parliment a few years back because he was angry over the light attitude the government was taking over the disputed islands with Korea? One of the threats made by the people was that they would go there with a knife and another said he’d go there and blow away the train. So it wouldn’t surprise me if they were more wondered about the potential threat those nutters posed as opposed to an event that has been going on for over 20 years. We had cops in our car last year – no problem.

    2)recent events with Nova. From what I gather a number of people at the Shinjuku party were Nova teachers and no doubt in the need of a little steam-venting. It’s not excuse for bad behavior but it’s understandable why this year they might have been more unruly. However, I do not beleive the crap the people are spewing about broken cellphones and stuff.

    Comment by samuraidave | November 2, 2007 | Reply

  17. I’m glad I was not one of those exhausted commuters who got stuck on a train with the bunch of drunks.

    Comment by momi | November 3, 2007 | Reply

  18. To racist people everywhere; it was a little thoughtless of passengers.. but i was on the shinjuku train, it was harmless! and comeon people, yamanote comes every 3 minutes (just ride a different one if it bugs you, 3 minutes wont kill anyone) or so and there was a whole stretch of untouched cars on the train we rode on. i think racist xenophobes are just using this as a way to show they are scared when big groups of foreigners (and their japanese supporters) gather in one spot (and by the way, the shinjuku one NEVER stopped for 40 minutes, thats just not real, most was 10 minutes or so)

    Comment by random.user | November 7, 2007 | Reply

  19. ほんと白人ってキショいね(笑)

    Comment by kimasuta | November 13, 2007 | Reply

  20. Next year, please do it in New York subway or any public transportation in the US. Certainly, you will be arrested (and deported to your home if you are not a US citizen). Think about why you are allowed to do such things in Japan.

    Comment by Aki | November 18, 2007 | Reply

  21. Lol, man Dave, you love feedin’ the haterz.

    I haven’t been to this event, but I can say, at least my 2 cents about it, is that:


    Who gives a shit about somebody who has an opinion and a keyboard anywayz?

    Comment by Tkyosam | August 16, 2008 | Reply

  22. Well, I don’t really care about this personally. But unfortunately events like this (though not only this and to your “credit” not so much this particular event) more usually idiocy in Roppongi etc. sometimes give unfavorable impressions of all foreigners in Tokyo among some people and being one, I find this annoying. Especially when it breeds such contempt as death threats and whatever from the 2chan crew!

    Comment by aj | October 8, 2008 | Reply

  23. 3/5/10/15 minutes delay is huge if you are catching trains in Japan…the connections are everything. I am just glad I wasn’t trying to get home or to meet someone when you were all having fun! Always found it amusing how Halloween was made out to be such a big event by people I worked with in Japan, coming from a country that also doesn’t have it as a celebration of any particular importance it always struck me as much the same as people going on about other parochial holidays celebrated in their part of the world…I can see it now, an aussie train on Australia day, I wuldn’t even try it here!! 🙂

    Comment by stephanie | February 6, 2009 | Reply

  24. […] as can be seen from the number of concern and/or non-supportive comments on the Gaijinpot and Samurai Dave blog. Many of the posters seem concerned about the negative image of foreigners that the Yamanote […]

    Pingback by Yamanote Halloween Party 2009 » Tetsudō Otaku | October 18, 2009 | Reply

  25. これは日本人に嫌われても、文句言えないだろw

    Comment by I hate KY | October 27, 2009 | Reply


    Comment by NALAYAH | October 31, 2009 | Reply

  27. […] is of course the Infamous Yamanote Halloween Train, which in previous years has caused delays and trouble on the beloved Yamanote […]

    Pingback by Tricks and Treats in Japanese Halloween | Where to Now sir? | November 5, 2009 | Reply

  28. h4jkJI

    Comment by frenky | May 8, 2011 | Reply

  29. How much were you paid in your last job? Underage Lolita Pic =OO

    Comment by Smccebrj | September 22, 2011 | Reply

  30. I’m from England Teen Model 12y

    Comment by Buelawdr | September 23, 2011 | Reply

  31. Looking for a job Preteen Lolitas %]]

    Comment by Yizzysrp | September 26, 2011 | Reply

  32. 日本語わからないと思いますが、コメントさせていただきます

    Comment by famidesuyo | July 16, 2012 | Reply

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